Montreal is only an easy 5 hour drive, an 1 hour flight, or in my case this past week, a 5 hour relaxing train ride from home. Technically, I didn’t “stopover” on my way to somewhere else, but since I only stayed a few nights, this mini vacation was more like a stopover rather than a holiday away.
Montreal is only an easy 5 hour drive, an 1 hour flight, or in my case this past week, a 5 hour relaxing train ride from home. Technically, I didn’t “stopover” on my way to somewhere else, but since I only stayed a few nights, this mini vacation was more like a stopover rather than a holiday away.
Last autumn, VIA Rail had a seat sale for economy class, and remembering how much both of us enjoyed train travel when we were younger, my husband and I decided to book a quick trip to Montreal…in January. Even during the mildest of winters, Toronto can be bitterly cold, but Toronto has nothing on Montreal when it comes to the nasty wind chills of the Great White North. January being one of the coldest months of the Canadian year, most Canucks are looking south for sunshine and escape. But, I love travelling off season to avoid the crowds, and keep costs low – and truthfully, Montreal is a vibrant, exciting city no matter the season, temperature or time of day.
One huge attraction of Montreal in the wintertime is their extensive underground path system. Similar to Toronto’s underground PATH, we were able to leave the Central Train Station, connect directly to the Metro, and take the subway to our hotel, all without going outside. In fact, except for our 5 minute walk to public transit from our home, our entire commute to our hotel in Montreal was indoors.
Although I’m slightly embarrassed to admit it, one of the primary reasons we came to Montreal was to visit a brewpub belonging to a Quebec Micro Brewery we both love, Dieu du Ciel. Having sampled ten of their brews at a beer tasting a few years earlier at Toronto’s Beer Bistro, we became instant fans. Their delicious selections of beer made us anxious to try more of their recipes. The brewpub located on Avenue Laurier Ouest, carries at least 15 varieties on tap, and is a great place to grab a pint and keep warm. Even during the week the pub is packed and it is worth trying to get there early to grab a table or stool at the bar. Their menu for food is limited, but I’d recommend sampling any of the pizzas, or cheese platters. Beer and cheese go perfectly together!
Besides beer, although worthy in it’s own right for a visit to Montreal, we also came for the food. Montrealers know how to indulge their senses, and there are no shortage of incredible restaurants to sample. There is however, a shortage of tables, so reservations are generally a must – again, no matter the time or the season.
Montreal, as well as Quebec as a whole, is known worldwide for their bagels, their smoked meat, their poutine, fois gras, cheese, buttertarts, sugar pie and anything else able to be drenched in maple syrup.
We made a reservation for Dominion Square Tavern, located on rue Metcalfe. A gem hidden downtown amongst fast food chains, this restaurant offers a vast selection of wine, a solid choice of tasty entrees and a Toffee Pudding that is insanely delicious. The atmosphere is old school classy, and with the golden glow of the chandeliers hanging from the ceiling, and the numerous Coats of Arms decorating the walls, it almost feels as if you are stepping into a tavern from the 1920’s. The history of the restaurant is worth reading about on their website.
Between dining and drinking, one of my favourite ways to explore Montreal is on foot. Old french styled buildings, with long circular steel stairways out front are romantic, and small Juliet balconies are found along most streets. Graffiti art is easy to find, and brightens up the darkest alleyways with their colourful, and sometimes politically inspired designs. Cold temperatures just mean you have to make more stops along your way, ducking into numerous cafes offering decadent chocolates, coffees and teas to warm you up before you continue on.
No matter what time of year you are travelling, if you find yourself with a connecting flight through Montreal, or have a few days off and want to escape to a world of romance, beauty and all things delectable, Montreal could easily be the ideal stopover.
Travel Tips
*when travelling on VIA from Toronto to Montreal, sit on the south side for the best views of Lake Ontario
*VIA offers free wi-fi, so bring your laptop/tablet to help pass the time
*although food is offered on the train, bring your own snacks
*seats are not reserved in economy class, so arrive early to ensure a preferred seat
*pack hats, mittens, and scarves when travelling anytime between October and May – temperatures can drop quickly within a few hours
*don’t worry if you don’t speak French. Most Montrealers speak English and are friendly – make an effort to speak French if you can, it is always appreciated
*unless you have a lot of time on your hands, do not discuss the Montreal Canadiens/Toronto Maple Leafs ongoing rivalry. Montrealers love their hockey, and will take offence to any slight against their hometown hockey team (even though Toronto is better :p)