We were nearing the end of our Cambodian adventure, with time to see one more town. We had discussed seeing Battambang before we started the trip but we had conflicting advice on visiting there. A friend back home said it was a sleepy town with not much to offer. A traveller we met in Sihanoukville said it was a must see. We were moving on from Siem Reap and decided that we would make the trip to Battambang before heading back to Thailand. There are 2 ways to get there, either by bus, or by boat. Both the guide book and the traveller we met said the boat was the more scenic way to go. Looking back now they were right and I would advise everyone to do it, but I doubt I’ll do the trip a second time.
We were nearing the end of our Cambodian adventure, with time to see one more town. We had discussed seeing Battambang before we started the trip but we had conflicting advice on visiting there. A friend back home said it was a sleepy town with not much to offer. A traveller we met in Sihanoukville said it was a must see. We were moving on from Siem Reap and decided that we would make the trip to Battambang before heading back to Thailand. There are 2 ways to get there, either by bus, or by boat. Both the guide book and the traveller we met said the boat was the more scenic way to go. Looking back now they were right and I would advise everyone to do it, but I doubt I’ll do the trip a second time.
Our home for 8 hours
Our day started at 7am when we were picked up by car from our hotel. We had bought our tickets the day before from our hotel. They didn’t specifically carry them, but the staff made some phone calls and set it up for us. We were taken to a shop about 10 minutes away and transferred to a remork. We were off and a short distance later picked up another couple from their hotel. It took about 30 minutes to travel to the dock located well out of town. Arriving to the usual chaos that surrounds travel in Cambodia, we were met by vendors selling food and drink for the journey ahead. We purchased some bread, cheese and water for what we were lead to believe was a 5 hour journey. Finding one of the few empty benches left, we settled in for the day ahead. The boat appeared to be over capacity. All the benches were filled and there more people on the roof, as well as all the luggage. Plenty of life jackets were visible, but I couldn’t tell if there was enough for everyone. This wasn’t the first time in Cambodia I put my normal concerns for safety on hold. We left the dock sometime after 8am and proceeded about 100m down the channel before pulling up to the shore. We spent 5 minutes there but no one got on or off. Eventually backing away from the shore, the boat turned and we headed off down the channel into Tonle Sap Lake. The journey at this point was as interesting as crossing any open water can be.
One of many businesses on the river
We entered the Sangkae River and the journey started to become memorable. We travelled along narrow channels between thick vegetation. We passed small canoes with 1 or 2 people fishing from them at the edge of the channel. At times the path was narrower than the boat. The crew would lower cloth panels that protected us from the branches entering the boat and hitting us. It seemed at times as if we were under attack with the noise and movement of the curtains. Eventually the river widened and we travelled down scenic waterways that meandered past the floating villages that line the river bank. People carried out their daily activities as we watched or took photographs. Clothes were washed, goods bought and sold, and meals eaten. Little kids smiled and waved as we passed. Some appeared disinterested but would slyly watch us as we passed. Slowly making our way along the river, time dragged on. The boat itself was uncomfortable. It leaned to one side, the engine was noisy, the benches small and unpadded. There were curtains that provide some shade from the unrelenting sun, and from the branches entering the boat. The boat is also used by locals to travel on. We made frequent stops where people would get on, or off, many carrying goods back home.
Family home
Around 1pm we stopped at a floating restaurant. Thinking we had only an hour to go, we were incredibly disappointed to learn we were only half way. It turns out the trip will take around 8 or 9 hours (it’s longer later in the dry season). We picked up some fresh pineapple and water for the afternoon. Some of the passengers bought noodles or rice dishes. There was cold beer and soft drinks for refreshments. Toilets are located at the side of the restaurant. They consisted of small cubicles built over the water with a hole cut into the bottom. Thinking of the kids that swim in that water made me a little ill.
The journey continued for hours more. The saving grace of the trip was the kids we saw all along the route. The floating villages gave way to boats tied up against trees or bushes, where families lived. Eventually those gave way to homes on stilts. Arriving at Battambang, once again the chaos of travel in Cambodia resumed. We were inundated by tuk-tuk drivers offering rides to hotels. We had arranged to be picked up by our hotel, but couldn’t find the driver. We bargained a price with another to take us there and off we went.
This is certainly a once in a life time trip. I don’t think I could endure it a second time, but would strongly recommend that everyone do it. Just be prepared.
Prepared for the rainy season
Tips:
-
Bring food and water, it’s a long day with only 1 stop to eat. The food for sale at the dock before departure is limited.
-
Bring a seat pad. The benches are not padded and are uncomfortable.
-
Sit near the front. The engine is at the back and is loud.
-
Try and sit where there is no post for the roof, it gives more space for your shoulders.
-
Smile and wave at the kids